Under extrusion is when the printer is unable to supply the right amount of material. You’ll know if your printer is under extruding as you’ll see missing layers, very thin layers, or layers that have random dots and holes in them. This problem is probably the trickiest to find the direct cause as there are so many variables to consider, but we’ll take you through them here and give you helpful pointers to remedy it.
- Make your printer print the first layer successful to avoid nozzle block at the beginning
- Make your printer extrude filament smoothly during print
Successful first layer
When you turn on the DreamMaker for the first time, you need to calibrate the build plate to get a good bed adhesion and improve the print quality. If the distance between the nozzle and build plate is too big, your print won’t stick properly to the buildplate. On the other hand, if the nozzle is too close to the buildplate, it can prevent the filament extruding from the nozzle.
It’s very important that the first layer is nicely pressed onto the glass plate with flat lines of filament and no gaps in between. Check out the below images to see a successful first layer and two unsuccessful ones.
If you haven’t get a successful first layer, please refer to “How to calibrate the buildplate”.
How to calibrate the build plate
To get the correct distance between the buildplate and the nozzle, you may check the height of the buildplate first, then operate calibration.
How to adjust the height of build plate? (link to FAQ — Maintenance — Adjust the height of the buildplate)
How to calibrate the OverLord? (link to Manuals — OverLord Operation – Calibration)
How to extrude filament smoothly
After calibrating, if nothing comes out of the nozzle during printing or not enough material coming out of nozzle during printing, which create abnormal porous structure on print surface, it means the nozzle seems blocked. The phenomena is called under extrusion.
Three factors may cause under extrusion.
The first and easiest things to check whether your print is suffering from under extrusion are the material settings. It’s important that the material profile on your DreamMaker (or material settings in Cura) matches the material. For example, a temperature setting that’s either too high or too low can lead to problems. When the temperature is too low, the material won’t melt properly as cooler plastic is more viscous and requires higher pressures to push it through the nozzle. Eventually the pressures will simply become too high and under extrusion happens. On the other hand, when the temperature’s too high, it can cause problems as the properties of the material will start to change if left in the nozzle for too long, causing clogs. Please check your filament spool for the proper temperatures.
OverLord uses Bowden extruder to extrude material. This structure usually requires higher extruding pressure or temperature. Sometimes, if you have set the right temperature according to the material supplier, however OverLord is still experience under extrusion, you can set nozzle temperature 10 ℃ higher than the required temperature to help OverLord extrude easier.
2. Filament is overlapping itself
Besides material settings, it’s also possible that the material itself is causing the problem. For example, filament can sometimes get tangled after removing it from the 3D printer — this is where it gets stuck before entering the feeder. Therefore it’s always a good idea to check that the filament isn’t overlapping on the spool before you start printing.
If this problem happens and fail to be detected at early stage, the filament can be seriously worn out on the extruder. When you find the filament is not moving inside, please immediately remove the material by using “reload” command. Cut around 1meter filament from the spool to get rid of the damaged filament. Make the spool of filament not overlapping. Then try reloading the filament again to see is there any material coming out of nozzle this time.
If you cannot remove the filament with “Reload”, then you need to take out the broken filament out of extruder manually, please follow the steps to remove the broken filament. (link to Maintenance –Removing the broken filament inside extruder).
3. Clean nozzle
Another important reason of under extrusion could be the blocked nozzle.
Please refer to this page for how to clean the nozzle. (Link to FAQ–Maintenance– Clean the nozzle of E3D)
When you're experiencing difficulties with prints sticking to the buildplate, there could be a few things going on. It could either mean that the first layer just doesn't stick well enough or that the prints gets loose due to "warping" of the plastic. Warping basically happens because of the properties of the plastic. Plastics have the tendency to shrink when cooling down fast (some plastics more than others), which could eventually lead to your print curling up (at the corners). You will especially notice this behavior when printing ABS, which has a relatively big shrinkage.
There are a few things you could do for a good first layer of a print and to reduce the amount of warping.
1. Heated bed
With a heated bed, using the correct bed temperature is important for good adhesion. This way you ensure that the first layer of the print doesn't cool too much, due to which it could shrink a lot. A temperature of 60°C is recommend for PLA while ABS needs a temperature of 90 oC.
2. Increase the stickiness of the build plate
Glass plate (OverLord Pro)
For good adhesion it is important that the glass plate is applied with enough glue.
You could refer this page for instructions. (Link to FAQ — Maintenance — How to apply glue or special printing tape to the build plate before printing)
Acrylic plate (OverLord)
The rough surface and absorbent nature of the special 3D printing tape plays a crucial role in 3D printing. It helps the printed object stick tightly to the build plate, which ensures a good quality print.
You could refer this page for instructions. (Link to FAQ — Maintenance — How to apply glue or special printing tape to the build plate before printing)
Or use the high temperature resistant printing sticker:
3. Buildplate calibration
For printing it is very important that the first layer is nicely squished into the glass plate and sticks well to it. If the distance between the nozzle and build plate is too big, your print won’t stick properly to the glass plate. On the other hand, if the nozzle is too close to the build plate it can prevent the filament from extruding from the nozzle.
In both cases this will lead to a bad first layer, which might eventually lead to adhesion problems. Make sure to re-calibrate the build plate if you're experiencing this issue.
You could refer this page for instructions. (Link to Manual — OverLord Operation — Calibration)
4. Using a "Brim"
A nice feature in Cura to help preventing warping is called "Brim". It will place a single layer thick flat area around your object, thus creating a bigger adhesion surface. The Brim can easily be removed once the print has finished.
This option can be selected when using the Full settings in Cura. You can find it at "platform adhesion type" in the basic settings tab. You may check you settings of Cura. (Link to Manual — Cura Software — Explanation of Important Cura Parameters)
When the top surface of a print is not completely closed or shows bumps, we call this pillowing. This behavior mainly appears because of wrong print settings and bad cooling. On this page we describe what you can do to get rid of pillowing on your prints.
To create a smooth top surface it’s important to use a top thick enough on your print. A thin top may logically lead to a top surface with holes in it. Thus, increasing the Bottom/Top thickness in Cura will help to better close the top surface of your print. We advise to use a Bottom/Top thickness of at least 6 times the layer height to properly close your model if it has a flat top surface. This means for example that you need a Bottom/Top thickness of 0.9 mm when using a 0.15 mm layer height. If the top surface of your print is not properly closed you could increase the Bottom/Top thickness. In general we can say that the thinner the layer height, the more top layers you need. Thinner layers will curl up or break easier, thus more layers are needed to completely close the top.
This option can be selected when using the Full settings in Cura. You can find it at "Bottom/Top thickness" in the basic settings tab. Or you may check you setting of Cura. (Link to Manual — Cura Software — Explanation of Important Cura Parameters)
Cooling settings & slow down the print speed
Besides good settings, it might be even more important to properly cool the plastic at the top surface. Make sure the print head fans are running at full speed. If they don’t, the plastic might not cool properly through which it may hang down a bit or curl up at the places where it crosses the infill lines. This means that an uneven surface is created for the next layer that must be placed on top of it, leading to bumps on the top surface. Thinner the layer is, more tendency it will curl up. Therefore it could help to increase the layer height. Lowering the printing temperature could also help, but to ensure your print doesn’t start under extrusion it might be necessary to lower the print speed as well.
If above methods don’t help, please check if your printer is under extrusion.
The primary countermeasure for stringing is something called retraction. When you have retraction enabled the printer will "suck" the filament back a short distance before moving the print head over an open space. By sucking the filament in a bit it helps prevent plastic from dripping from the nozzle during the travel move. And you could increase the travel speed or change the temperature to improve this situation.
So what you should do first is to make sure that retraction is actually enabled in Cura. This setting is found on the "Basic" tab in the form of a check box when you are in the full settings mode (Expert -> Switch to full settings…). Make sure this box is checked. You can check if retractions will happen without printing by looking at the layer view in Cura after slicing your object. You switch to layer view with the big button in the upper right corner of the window. The retractions are indicated by small blue lines that go from the print and straight up. It can sometimes be tricky to see these lines without zooming in and rotating the view around.
As you can see it can be hard to spot these small lines unless you zoom in for a closer look. The other blue line indicates the travel move that the retraction is preparing for.
Increase travel speed
You can increase this to 150mm/s. By increasing the travel speed you give the head less time to ooze plastic but you also help snap off any strands that form instead of dragging them along.
Lower nozzle temperature
Temperature can also play a part. Experiment with a lower temperature.
This image shows clearly how lowering the temperature has a very positive effect on the amount of stringing. As always when lowering temperature you must also make sure that you are printing slowly enough to prevent under extrusion. Note that the temperatures shown in this image is for PLA, for other materials you may not be able to go this low. Or conversely, you may be able to go even lower.
It should be noted that some filaments are simply prone to stringing and no matter what you do it might be all but impossible to completely eliminate them. Even different colors from the same manufacturer can differ in how much they string.
3D printing works by building the object one layer at a time. Each successive layer is printed on top of the previous layer, and in the end this creates the desired 3D shape. However, for the final part to be strong and reliable, you need to make sure that each layer adequately bonds to the layer below it. If the layers do not bond together well enough, the final part may split or separate. Follow this page will solve your issue.
Most 3D printing nozzles have a diameter between 0.3-0.5mm. The plastic squeezes through this tiny opening to create a very thin extrusion that can produce extremely detailed parts. However, these small nozzles also create some limitations for what layer heights can be used. When you print one layer of plastic on top of another, you want to make sure that the new layer is being pressed against the layer below it so that the two layers will bond together. As a general rule of thumb, you want to make sure that the layer height you select is 15% smaller than your nozzle diameter. For example, if you have a 0.4mm nozzle, you cannot go too far past a layer height of 0.32mm, or each layer of plastic will not be able to properly bond to the layer beneath it. So if you notice that your prints are separating and the layers are not sticking together, the first thing you should check is your layer height compared to the size of your nozzle. Try reducing the layer height to see if it helps the layers bond together better. You can do this by clicking “Layer height” in Cura.
Warm plastic will always bond together much better than cold plastic. If you notice that your layers aren’t bonding' together and you are certain that your layer height isn’t too large, then it is possible that your filament needs to be printed a higher temperature to create a strong bond. For example, if you tried to print ABS plastic at 190C, you would likely find that the layers of your part will easily break apart. This is because ABS typically needs to be printed around 220-235C to create a strong bond between the layers of your print. So if you feel this may be the problem, verify that you are using the correct temperature for the filament you have purchased. Try increasing the temperature by 10 degrees to see if the adhesion improves. You can do this by clicking “Temperature” in Tune when you printing. (Link to Manual — OverLord Operation — Other settings)
The sides of your 3D printed part are composed of hundreds of individual layers. If things are working properly, these layers will appear to be a single, smooth surface. However, if something goes wrong with just one of these layers, it is usually clearly visible from the outside of the print. These improper layers may appear to look like lines or ridges on the sides of your part. Many times the defects will appear to be cyclical, meaning that the lines appear in a repeating pattern (i.e. once every 15 layers). The section below will look at several common causes for these issues.
First, you should check you the correct distance between the build plate and the nozzle.
You can refer to the instructions here. (Link to FAQ — Defect prints — Under extrusion-not extruding at start-stops extruding during print)
Poor filament quality
The most common cause for this issue is poor filament quality. If the filament does not have very tight tolerances, then you will notice this variation on the side walls of your print. For example, if your filament diameter varied by just 5% over the length of the spool, the width of the plastic extruded from the nozzle could change by as much as 0.05mm. This extra extrusion will create a layer that is wider than all the others, which will end up looking like a line on the side of the print. To create a perfectly smooth side wall, your printer needs to be able to produce a very consistent extrusion which requires high-quality plastic.
Your printer includes a nozzle with a fixed size that allows you to accurately reproduce very small features. For example, many printers include a nozzle with a 0.4mm diameter hole in the tip. While this works well for most parts, you may start to encounter issues when trying to print extremely thin features that are smaller than the nozzle diameter. For example, if you were trying to print a 0.2mm thick wall with a 0.4mm nozzle. The reason for this is that you cannot accurately produce a 0.2mm extrusion from a 0.4mm nozzle. The extrusion width should always be equal to or greater than the nozzle diameter. Because of this, the software removes these small features from the preview. This is the software’s way of telling you that you cannot print these very tiny features using the current nozzle on your 3D printer. If you are frequently printing very small parts, this may be a recurring issue that you encounter. There are several options that will allow you to successfully print these small parts. We will example each one in the section below.
Redesign or scale-up the part
The first and most obvious option is to redesign the part so that it only includes features that are larger than your nozzle diameter. This typically involves editing the 3D model in the original CAD package to modify the size of the small features. Or you have increase fill density or change the scale the modification in Cura, you can re-import the model into Cura to verify that your printer is capable of reproducing the 3D shape you created.
About Cura setting you could browse this link Manual Cura Software_Cura Installations and Recommended Settings.
One of the major benefits of Cura the ability to create innovative support structures which allow you to create incredibly complex parts that would be hard to manufacture otherwise. For example, if there is a hanging part in the model, then a support structure can provide a foundation for these layers. The support structures created by Cura are disposable and can be easily separated from the final part. However, depending on your settings, you may find that some adjustments are needed to perfect the surface quality on the underside of your parts, right above the support structure foundation. We will explain the key settings below and how they can affect your prints.
The overhang performance of your printer can be greatly improved by lowering your layer height. For example, if you reduced your layer height from 0.2mm to 0.1mm, your printer will create twice as many layers, which allows your printer to take smaller steps when creating an overhang. For this reason, you may find that you need support structures for any overhang above 45 degrees when using a 0.2mm layer height, but your overhang performance may improve to 60 degrees if you lower your layer height to 0.1mm. This has the obvious advantage of decreasing your print time and reducing the amount of support structures required for the print, but it will also allow you to create a smoother surface on the underside of your parts. If you find that you need to increase the print quality in this area, this is one of the first settings you will want to adjust.
You can also adjust the density infill Percentage. It is common to use a value around 20-40%, but you may find that you need to increase this value if the bottom layers of your part are drooping too much.
"Touching build plate" is the most commonly used support setting. If you set "everywhere" in support settings, Cura may create support even on top of parts of the model.
Please set appropriate support according to the condition.
OverLord runs machine initialization (Start-up) the first time you power it on. Please follow the instructions and set up the printer as detailed. Once the initialization process has been complete, you are ready to print. If the initialization process fails, please restart the printer by switching it off and then on again. If you do not see the initialization user interface, you could directly jump to the operations of calibrate/level the build plate; reload printing material and printing. Please follow the instructions and operate these steps in sequence.
CAUTION：Before start-up, make sure there is nothing on the build plate. During start-up, OverLord operates at a high temperature (above 220℃). To protect your safety, please do not reach inside while OverLord is in operation.
Preparing 3D printable model files
3D model files can be built using 3D design software on your computer, or created by using a 3D scanner attached to a computer.
Notes on the creation of 3D Models
1. If you are creating your own 3D model using software such as Solidworks, UG NX, ProE, 3DMax, Rhino, or Google SketchUp, select "save as" or "export" and save the model as a .STL file.
2. If you are downloading 3D models from online, or scanning an object with a 3D scanner, always make sure the file type you select is a .STL file.
3. If you want design your own 3D model, please keep in mind the fabrication principle of Fused Filament Fabrication (FFF) and avoid going beyond its limitation. For example, try to avoid over-hangs without support structure when selecting or creating your 3D model. Printed objects will have better shape and structural integrity if you consider models that require no support structures to print.
4. Some useful considerations when exporting .STL format model files using different modelling software:
How to make .STL file
File-> Export->Save As（select .STL）-> name the file ->Save
The output must be 3D object with the data on X,Y,Z is positive numbers. input"Faceters" ->set the FACETERS' number between 1~10（1 means low accuracy，10 means high accuracy）->then input"STLOUT" ->select the object->select"Y"，output the binary file->name the file
I – DEAS
File-> Export->Rapid Prototype File->select output the file->Select Prototype Device->SLA500.dat->set "absolute facet deviation" to "0.000395"->select "Binary"
Save Copy As->select .STL ->select Options，set "High"
Click the object with the wright mouse button ->Part Properties->Rendering->set "Facet Surface Smoothing" to 150->File->Export->select .STL
Use AMSTLOUT to output .STL file
The orders below will influence the quality of .STL file. You should set it at the proper number to output the file you need.
1.Angular Tolerance——set the angular Tolerance between two neighboring face. Default is 15 degree. Reducing this number will enhance the accuracy of the .STL file.
2.Aspect Radio——This parameter will control the ratio of a triangle’ s height and width. "1" indicate the number of height is not bigger than that of the width. Default is 0, which can be ignored.
3.Surface Tolerance——This parameter will control the accuracy of the brim between the model and triangle’s face. Default is 0, which can be ignored.
4.Vertex Spacing——This parameter will control the length of the triangle’s sides. Default is 0, which can be ignored.
2. Or select "File" -> save a copy->select .STL
3. Set the Chord Height to "0". Then this parameter will be automatically set by the system to the minimum.
4. Set the Angle Control to 1
File->Save a copy->Model->select the file type "STL（*.stl）"
Set the Chord Height to "0". Then this parameter will be automatically set by the system to the minimum. Set the Angle Control to 1.
File->Save As（Save as .STL）
File->External->Save STL->select Binary ->select the spare parts->input "0.001mm" as Max Deviation Distance
Set Conversion Tolerance to "0.001mm" or "0.0254mm"
Set the Surface Plane Angle "45.00"
File->Export->Rapid Prototyping->Set the file type to Binary
Set the Triangle Tolerance to "0.0025"
Set the Adjacency Tolerance "0.12"
Set the Auto Normal Gen "On"
Set the Normal Display "Off"
Set the Triangle Display "On"
However, for those more interested in printing models there are thousands of models available online in various 3D model communities. Some communities include:
Thingiverse – https://www.thingiverse.com/
My Mini Factory – https://www.myminifactory.com/
How to process 3D models
To print a 3D model file, you first need to convert it using 3D model slicing software. Slicing software first cuts the model into thousands of slices, calculating the path the nozzle will travel in order to print the model from the ground up. It also calculates how much material the nozzle should extrude per second. The software then processes all of this information into a .gcode file that can be recognized and read by the Overlord 3D Printer.
The OverLord 3D Printer uses open source model slicing software called Cura. You will find it pre-loaded on the SD Card sent with the machine, or you can download it directly from http://wiki.ultimaker.com/Cura.
Step 1: Download a .STL 3D model file or create your own.
Step 2: Save the .STL file as a .GCODE file using the Cura software.
Step 3: Save the .GCODE file onto the SD card, and insert into the OverLord Pro.
1. Glass plate (overlord pro)
Correctly applying glue to the build plate (aluminum/glass) prevents the printed object from detaching off the build plate when printing. We recommend cleaning the glue membrane regularly for glass plate (overlord pro)since it can cause the print surface to become uneven on the bottom.
How to apply glue
- Before printing, if there is glue residue on the build plate, carefully wipe it clean with an alcohol swap or wet cloth. Wait until it becomes completely dry before moving on to the next step (This is important).
- Apply a layer of glue using the glue stick on the printing area 3 times and to form a noticeable glue membrane. Wait for the glue dry completely before printing. To speed up the glue drying process, select “Temperature—Heat up Build plate” to 40 oC.
- After printing for many times, you may want to clean the build plate. A piece of wet cloth and a shovel are needed to finish this process: first, use the wet cloth to soften the dried glue on build plate; then use a shovel to scratch out the glue.
2. Acrylic plate(overlord)
The tape for acrylic plate (OverLord) wears down with use and eventually breaks, making it unsuitable for further printing. You should check the tape surface every time before printing: flatten the tape and make sure it covers the whole printing area. Once it has broken, it will need to be completely replaced.
How to apply special printing tape
- Before printing, check for any remnants of broken tape. Remove them.
- Reapply the tape to the build plate, ensuring to cover the entire area you intend on printing onto. Smooth the surface flat and remove any wrinkles.
3. Use the high temperature resistant printing sticker
Usually you needn’t to adjust the height of the build plate. However, long distance shipment and delivery may cause OverLord shaking and the bolts on the build plate may become loose. If the build plate is not in its position, the effect of auto-calibration may become worse, and this may lead to a failed print. So we recommend checking the build plate status after you received your package. If it is necessary, the build plate should be adjusted horizontal one more time.
How to adjust the height
Find the three screws on the build plate. You can adjust the height of the build plate by adjusting the three screws with a screwdriver. After adjusting, the build plate should be horizontal and at a standard height shown in the below picture. Notice the distance may vary due to different thinness of the build plate.
Sometimes the extruder keeps feeding material even when the nozzle is blocked. Because the filament cannot move forward, gradually the filament inside the extruder is worn out by the extruder gear, as a result, the filament becomes too thin and the extruder gear is unable to drive it forward or backward anymore. The worst case is the filament breaks inside extruder or be distorted between extruder gear due to extruder over heat. As soon as you notice these problems occurring, please shut down the machine immediately, take out the extruder. The extruder may need to be disassembled and cleaned out.
How to remove broken filament inside extruder?
You can watch the instruction video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A3WL7Spzkl8&feature=autoshare
and take the steps described below:
1. Open the hexagonal acrylic board above the machine, find the extruder, and unscrew 2 fastening screw and 1 adjusting screw with a spring on.
2. Pull out the extruder with extruding stepper out and unplug the stepper wire. Then unscrew the 4 screws to disassemble the stepper.
3. Carefully open the extruder in half and take the broken filament out. Make sure not to lose the M3 nut inside the extruder.
CAUTION: Be careful do not lose the M3 nut inside extruder when cleaning the extruder.
4. Re-assemble the extruder and put everything back in place. When you refasten the adjusting screw, make sure the distance between the screw head and the mounting plane is about 6mm.
Sometimes the filament breaks inside the filament feeding tube. This affects the material changing function.
CAUTION: The following steps generate high temperatures in the 3D printer nozzle module. Please be careful while operating in order to prevent injury.
How to remove the broken filament from filament feeding tube:
1. Try removing the filament inside nozzle with the “Reload” function. If you could not remove it, you can first cut the material near extruder with scissors and do the following steps.
2. Find the black pneumatic fitting above the nozzle module, push the blue circle (some are black) under the pneumatic and then you are able to drag out the feeding tube which connect the nozzle and the pneumatic fitting.
3. Select “Movement—move material”. Wait until the nozzle temperature reaches its setting temperature. You can then drag the residue material that left inside the feeding tube out from the gap. “Press down to extrude” command may also help you during this process.
4. After successfully removing the broken filament, carefully push the feeding tube back inside the black pneumatic fitting. Then you could reload the material.
Over time, print tasks may cause the belt to mechanically fatigue. This causes the belt to prolong and become longer. The lengthening of the belt may affect the quality of printing. If you notice that printing quality has gone down but no problems exist in the extruder, check the belt and see if it is properly fastened—It might be the cause of your problems.
How to fasten the belts:
You can watch the instruction video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AD5HWfoZcRU
and take the steps described below:
1. Find the belt fastener 5cm below the slider on rod.
2. Screw it clockwise to fasten the belt until it resembles the picture shown below.
The nozzle can over time become blocked by dirt, carbonized material or material properties changes caused by material mixing during material changing. This often happens gradually: first, porous structures will start to appear on surface of the print object, and if left unaddressed, it then worsens to the point that your nozzle becomes completely blocked and nothing comes out. If you do not clean your nozzle in a prompt manner, the quality of printing will become continually deteriorate. The best way to protect nozzle from blocking is to use good quality filament and avoid changing the filament too frequently.
Several methods can be applied to remove the blockage. This page describes which steps are needed to clean the nozzle and continue the printing again.
1. Manually extruding material & raising nozzle printing temperature
The easiest way to help clean the nozzle is to manually extruding material and let the melted material take out the dirt gradually. Follow steps below:
(a) Go “Movement—move material” and try manually extruding material for at least one minute. If the nozzle is clogged with just a tiny particle, the particle will come out when some extra pressure is applied. This method is applicable when the nozzle is slightly blocked.
(b) If the situation is more severe, and in step (a), the melted material leaves the nozzle only in an abnormal thin shape, and meanwhile the extruder makes high frequency noises as if the filament has stuck and cannot move forward as expected, try raising up your nozzle temperature by 10 ℃ in your next print. The nozzle temperature can be set in menu “Settings—Material settings”. Thus, next time when you print something, the high printing temperature will allow the material flow more easily and help bring out the dirt.
2. Use “Clean” function
If above solution only has a limited effect, you may try the in-built experimental “Clean” function to help clean the nozzle. This method could help “suck” out the dirt from the nozzle. (Link to Manual– OverLord operation–Clean Nozzle)
3. Unclogging by a needle
If your nozzle is severe clogged as 1 & 2 methods do not work, you may consider unclog it with a needle. When you apply this method, please be careful not to burn your fingers as the nozzle and residues are very hot. Always remember to wear gloves or use a pliers to protect your fingers from the melted material and burning nozzle.
(a) Heat up the nozzle to 210 ℃ (for PLA) in “Temperature—Heat up nozzle”. This temperature may vary according to the property of the material you are printing.
(b) When the nozzle reached target temperature, insert the needle into the nozzle from the bottom side. To avoid nozzle getting damaged, it is important that the needle is thinner than the nozzle diameter. You can use the needle tool provided in the OverLord toolbox.
(c) Be careful to slowly push the needle up straight through the nozzle hole. Do not push it against the sides as this might damage inner wall of the nozzle. Simply insert it into the nozzle and then take it out.
(d) Use “Movement—move material” function to check if the material comes out of the nozzle more smoothly.
Caution: Be careful do not burn your fingers during the operation as the nozzle and residue can be very hot and dangerous. Always remember to wear gloves to protect your fingers from the melted material.
4. Contact support
If the problem still cannot been solved, please contact firstname.lastname@example.org for further instruction.